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Oxfords, Twills, Wovens |
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We talked about denim fabric in an earlier segment. Now on to Oxford cloth and a few other weaves. Oxford cloth is of plain weave construction where the white thread [and often with 2 white threads acting as one] runs the whole length of the fabric, “longwise” – referred to as the “warp”, and where the thread running back and forth across the white thread [the “weft”] is of another color [blue, khaki/tan/camel, burgundy and so on]. The resultant fabric is a somewhat porous and rather stout cotton shirting weave that creates a soft, nubby texture. [Note: Is also made from spun rayon, nylon or other man-made fibers.]
A twill fabric, on the other hand – including denim by the way – is produced when the warp and weft don’t each go over one thread at a time as they do with oxford but, rather, they go over at least 2 other threads at a time. The appearance, on close inspection is of a small diagonal effect of the threads. Hence, this “diagonal rib” is what we refer to as the twill weave. [Source: Cynthia Virtue, 1999 from “Why Denim Isn’t Oxford Cloth.] It should be added that the twill is one of three basic weaves [the other two being plain and satin], and when the diagonal runs upward from left to right, this produces a right-hand twill. Guess what! The left hand twill, with the diagonal rib running upward from right to left, is the traditional denim weave. For perhaps obvious reasons, twill weaves are used to produce a strong, durable fabric.
Finally – the woven fabric is one constructed by the interlacing of two or more sets of yarns at right angles to each other. Examples of these are found throughout the Denims Unlimited site – such as this woven denim.
One of the finest Oxford shirts on the market today is the “Madison” cotton oxford from the Dunbrooke collection. This garment, Dunbrooke style #8090, is a comfortable 5.5 oz. WRINKLE-FREE shirt, garment washed and with single-needle top stitching; two-button adjustable cuffs, button sleeve placket [also comes with left chest pocket].
From the TriMountain line comes the “Retro”, a short-sleeved pocket oxford shirt. According to some, this garment is the ultimate uniform shirt. It’s a 4.7 oz. 60/40 cotton-polyester woven oxford, stain-resistant, and it’s constructed with a yoke back and button-down collar. As stated, this is a short sleeve oxford shirt, and has a left-chest pocket. [The Ladies' coordinate, it should be added, is TriMountain style 741.]
A long-standing national brand, Van Heusen, has produced oxford shirts for a good part of the 20th century. Their style #57800 features 60% cotton/40% polyester, single-needle stitching, long tuck-in tail, pleated back, and single-chest pocket. The garment is constructed of easy-care fabric with a crisp, clean appearance. All the details can be seen at, you guessed it, the cauinc.com/denim Web site.
The Twill shirt is represented by a whole range of options, including the short-sleeved one produced by the Blue Generation. For work or casual, this shirt is the greatest. It’s constructed of 6.5 oz. 100% cotton twill fabric that's garment-washed for a soft texture. It comes in high visibility colors that stay bright wash after wash and is a comfortable full cut with a look that's professional and stylish!
Another is the Rivers End micro-sanded twill, and this one – for women – is a fantastic buy. It’s a premium 100% cotton twill fabric, micro-sanded and garment washed for softness and to reduce shrinkage. Comes with button-down collar amd pen pocket. [The ladies' coordinate is Style 610].
From TriMountain comes “The Retro”, a premium garment in sizes through 6XLT. The ultimate "uniform shirt," this is a 4.7 oz. 60/40 cotton-polyester woven oxford, stain-resistant and constructed with a yoke back and button-down collar. It also has short sleeves and a left-chest pocket. [Also comes in ladies' coordinate: Style 741].
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• Online prices: For "blanks"
• Minimum Order: $50
•Shipping: $10 if order < $250
•Shipping: 8.0% if order subtotal > $250 and 8% for custom orders
• Embroidery & Screen printing: Avail. by request, 25-piece minimum
• No international shipments
[except APO and FPO]
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